Chicken kati roll with fries.
Kolkati cooks up at Kerb Camden in north London seven days a week.
The menu says:
“Flaky paratha flatbread cooked in ghee, egg coating, masala chicken, fresh coriander, tomato, green chilli, pink pickled onions, a squeeze of lime and our signature sauces: coconut and coriander, raita, and tamarind and date ketchup.”
The hype says:
Rated as the 32nd best street food trader in London by Time Out; TripAdvisor: “The chicken wraps are to die for. Would definitely recommend”; Facebook: “Sooo tasty. Hot, spicy and full of fresh flavours.”
Despite being a self-confessed Indian enthusiast, things, sadly, get off to a bad start at Kolkati. On asking for a receipt, the server ignores me and then hands over my fries with a ‘your wrap will be ready in five minutes’. I’d kind of assumed they were intended to be eaten together, but being English and averse to complaining, I tuck in, not wanting them to get cold… But, luckily, he’s way ahead of me, as my makeshift ‘starter’ is heading south of lukewarm already (as well as being unseasoned and served up with basic ketchup and mayo, as opposed to the more cosmopolitan condiments that are alluded to on the online menu).
When the main event finally rolls in, the star of the show is undoubtedly the paratha flatbread, which is flaky, different and delicious. The chicken filling, however, is a tad dry, salty and (for my palete) lacking in spice. In today’s world of culinary customisation, the offer of condiments could have done much to alleviate all three; though not the lack of contrast (or ‘crunch’) provided by the two constituent parts.
As I finish my last (now cold) chip, it strikes me that you’d be better off visiting Baba G’s, who reside in the same market, if you want more authentic Asian-inflected accompaniments. And, come to think of it, I’d recommend trading up your Kolkati kati roll for one of its awesome Bollywood-in-a-bap burgers while you’re there…
Should you believe the hype:
Sadly not – Kolkati demonstrates why customisation and customer service are so important.